Anthony J's: Yes, it is Italian

Anthony J's Bistro in Mystic, Connecticut is another of those spots the locals seem to know and love, referring to it as a place with 'really good food and drinks'. On that note, I decided to investigate.

Inside, the place is covered in dark wood from floor to ceiling, only broken by wall sections made of massive gray bricks. An extremely colorful mural depicting what I assume is a night at Anthony J's distracts you through the entire meal (at least it did for my sister and me). Not only is it very outdated, but it is comical as the “people” on it are of different races, shades, and personalities. I give props to the idea of being all inclusive, but it came as across as trying too hard. But then yet again, it might just be the owner's joke on us. Portrayed, there is a diner-like waitress with big hair carrying a tray high up above her head, an Asian woman sitting at the bar next to a man with a red beard, an African American male wearing bright yellow in the fore front, and a promiscuous looking blonde at the bar chatting up an overweight, bald man. Also, a man with a stiff posture, red bow tie and suspenders, who I think of as “the connoisseur” of the wall, further proves that the bistro attracts all types of people.

Anthony J's is an Italian bistro serving the classics, among them bolognese, fettuccine carbonara, osso bucco, antipasta, and small selection of stone pizza pies. For starters, I ordered the veal meatballs with homemade marinara sauce, and calamari fritti, as per recommendation. The meatballs had a light flavor, probably from the choice of meat, and were less crumbly than the meatballs I am used to. The marinara was straightforward, and overall the dish had less spices and herbs than could have been used, but good nonetheless.

The calamari fritti was squid tossed with red cherry peppers and bread crumbs. Their calamari is pan fried, not deep fried, which does not give it that greasy, oil taste. The squid was cooked perfectly, not chewy at all, but tender and soft. It was very spicy, which I liked, but it lacked salt. In my opinion, a wedge of lemon would have added a splash of acidity to brighten up the dish.

Unique to the menu of any Italian restaurant, but perhaps common to Korean cuisine, is their Hot Rocks. Stones imported from Italy are heated to a scorching 650 degrees. Guests chose from seafood scampi, steak teriyaki, and cajun spiced chicken (the two latter being very traditional Italian, ahem!) and cook the proteins themselves. Other tables around us, from what I overheard, were hesitant to order this since it would require them having to cook, which is after all the main reason people dine out. I liked the interactiveness of the dish and decided to try the seafood scampi. I heard the sizzle before I saw the waitress approaching us carrying the smoking board. On it was a square stone with seafood in a straight line- four scallops, two shrimp, lobster knuckles, small pieces of salmon, and some calamari. I enjoy my scallops and salmon cooked more medium that my sister does, and the stone allowed us to have seafood our way. The seafood, however, lacked seasoning again, and none of the Hot Rocks items include a side. We ordered a simple garden salad with tomato basil vinaigrette since the meal would have then felt incomplete.

For dessert, we got the tiramisu made in house. It was sweet, light, and airy. It was rich, but not overwhelming. It did not get the Kahlua and coffee flavors listed on the description, and I felt it had less lady finger than other tiramisu I have had or made.

Like with many of the restaurants in small towns, with Anthony J's “it is what it is”.

A Sneak Peak Into the Ocean House

Seasons restaurant at the lucrative Ocean House resort in Watch Hill assumes a novel perspective of what defines Rhode Island, and the Atlantic Coast Region. This contemporary approach is not only seen in its modern take on the classic cuisine, but also on the remarkable environment of its elegant, abyssal dining room.

This past week I had the privilege of dining at Seasons before the scheduled opening May 17^th. The restaurant space is beautiful. The bar and lounge are of rich, dark wood, whereas the dining room, which stretches out into an enclosed, ocean-viewing terrace, is softer, full of white, beige and blue tones. Bullet-shaped, blue chandeliers hang throughout the whole restaurant. A chef's counter lines the new, open kitchen, which is framed in by a biveted, copper hood, allowing guests to view the live action.

The menu is designed to highlight certain products, all sourced by the resort's food forager from local growers, farmers, and fishmongers- true farm-to-table. Each primary ingredient is followed by one or two methods of preparations. Portion sizes are purposely lager than a starter and smaller than an entree to encourage guest to taste and experience different dishes thus exposing them to the scope of the Chef's skill and ingenuity and also to the vastness of fresh, seasonal ingredients that showcase the New England bounty.

Knowing that dinners at Seasons would be few and far between, I decided to order three courses, a cheese course, and dessert. First, I chose the Hudson Valley Foie Gras, pickled ginger, rhubarb, pistachio nougatine, watercress, served with house made brioche. Although I am not an offal connoisseur, I am open to trying foods that do not necessarily fall under my comfort zone. Nonetheless, the foie gras, which was prepared as a terrine, was delicious. It did not have that strong liver taste, it was subtle in flavor, which is evidence that it was properly cured, and of superior quality. The rhubarb was made into a puree and brought acidity and sweetness which counterbalanced the fattiness of the foie. The crunchy pistachio nougatine (a confection made of caramel mixed with nuts) gave the one dimensional dish proportionate texture.

The lobster, caught from the resort's backyard (or back-ocean I should say) is served as a salad or poached in butter. These lobsters, the Chef explained, are of a harder shell and more flavorful due to their diet. I tried the salad with Tokyo turnips, pickled red onions, celery branch, mustard seed vinaigrette, since this would be my mid, savory course. The lobster portion (the claw for the salad) was impressive in size. They were sweet and distinct to other lobsters I have had, which have been more “fishy” in flavor. The cooked turnips add a bitter, earthy, stringent element to the dish that is balanced by the gentle acidity of the onion, the watery, freshness of the celery, and creamy, sharp mustard seed vinaigrette.

The North Atlantic halibut poached in olive oil is served over a bed of cassoulet of Vermont heirloom beans, english peas, and is coated in lobster butter. The fish was soft and tender, it effortlessly flaked with the prick of my fork. The heirlooms beans were cooked to the point were they had a general bite to them, without the risk of being raw. This coarse starch provided a nice contrast to the lightness of the halibut, and opulence of the lobster butter.

For dessert, we had strawberry and rhubarb gratin with pistachio sable and asparagus ice cream. The star- the asparagus ice cream. I have had vegetable ice cream before and it never really liked up to the flavor profile of said vegetable. This one did. And the distinct taste unique to asparagus and sweetness complemented that of the gratin without either overpowering the other.

All in all, Seasons at the Ocean House creates a true dining experience for its guest through the Chef's exceptional use and execution of what the state of Rhode Island and neighboring New England states have to offer.

Gotta Love the Goose

The Cooked Goose on Watch Hill Road, is a warm, homey spot across the Pawcatuck River. For what the small town of Westerly has to offer, this place is on the top of my list (#2 to be exact). Serving breakfast and lunch seven days a week, they specialize on light fare- sandwiches, soups, baked goods, and gourmet foods. The Chef stresses the use of fresh, quality products in all item menus, which is common to cafes or delis in big cities- not in a place like Westerly. Breakfast can be a bagel with cream cheese and a cup of joe or truffled eggs and vanilla almond french toast. For lunch, options include The Goose (Italian tuna, Bel Paese, sweet peppers and arugula on ciabatta), Captain Kirk (basil and cashew chicken salad with avocado, tomato and sprouts in a spinach wrap), and The World's Best hot pastrami sandwich platte. On Fridays they serve fish and chips, with fresh haddock, served with fry wedges, and house made remoulade. Delicious! Of their to buy section they have, to my surprise, Epoisses, the traditional Burgundy cheese washed with Marc de Bourgogne. This is one of my favorites, which I have previously enjoyed at fine dining restaurants. Nevertheless, the Goose is a must have.