When selecting where to take the beau for his birthday dinner, I had a difficult choice to make, but I knew what my restaurant requirements were. First, the quality of the food was top priority. Night after night, he creates incredible dishes and watches others indulge in them. I wanted that special experience for him. The restaurant I chose had to be one we had not dined at before. Outings are rare these days, so I wanted the night to be exciting for both of us, especially since it would be a surprise for him. Finally, they had to be opened on a Tuesday night.
Tallulah on Thames, in Newport, is a fairly new restaurant I had heard of from a Chef who I deemed of excellent taste as I previously had an outstanding meal at his restaurant. Going in totally oblivious to the menu, reviews, or what the actual restaurant looked like due to the lack of a working website, I was pleasantly surprised when I first walked in. The space is modest, short of forty seats, which made me at ease and lured me in;. I get a sense of comfort from more intimate settings. White tiles reminiscent of a period I quite can't point out, cover the walls and ceilings while the floor has large white and black tiles; bringing in together the white linen and black chairs. There is no bar in the main dining room, but there is a narrow window opening into the kitchen, which gives the illusion the restaurant is busier than it really is. Above the aperture, a book shelf runs across with a collection of the Chef's culinary books including “Under Pressure”, “Robuchon” and Harold McGee's “On Food and Cooking”, all must- have books for any great Chef today.
I had prearranged for two glasses of the house sparkling wine to be served upon our arrival as a celebratory token for the occasion. The manager at Tallulah was very accommodating with my request. At the restaurant, menus are clipped to giant clipboards which guests must awkwardly place on their laps wedged between them and the table. The wine list was limited; we had a delicious Pinot Noir, which was a special of the evening, and a decent Meritage.
The table bread is a house made brioche roll, served warm with whipped butter shaped into a perfect rectangle and finished with fleur de sel and micro cilantro. We first received Atlantic salmon cornets, as a gift from the Chef, which were small savory cones, stuffed with cured and shredded salmon dressed with lemon juice, salt, and crème fraiche. The flavor was very similar to gravlax, which I am not the biggest fan of, but the acidity from the lemon juice and texture from the cone imparted another dimension to the cured fish.
For appetizer, the mussels with chorizo in a tomato based broth with garlic, shallots, and peppers, served with house made brioche, was incomparable. The mussels were large, and tenderly cooked. The broth had a subtle spiciness to it, perhaps from the chorizo, and was finished with butter creating a rich, creamy, sauce, which my companion slurped up as if it were a soup. Their version of “toad in a hole”, was a 145 degree egg, served with brioche, baby spring vegetables, pea greens and truffle vinaigrette. The dish was well balanced, with acidity and earthiness from the truffle vinaigrette, brightness and slight sweetness from the pea greens, and heaviness brought on by the runny yolk. Both appetizers proved to be delicious and proof that the Chef Jake Rojas understands the dynamics of ingredients.
For entrees, the scallop dish had caught my eye as it was served to another table. The scallops looked mouth watering. They were hefty in size and had a warm, golden brown color indicating proper caramelization. Not only that, but the plate was abundant, not only with the portion of the scallops, but also the vegetables. The scallops sat on puree of carrots, and was served with a medley of vegetables, including haricot verts, baby carrots, and English peas. The scallops were cooked well done, not to the point of medium like I have had before, but were still succulent. The dish had opposing textures; the vegetables were cooked al dente, the puree was smooth and the scallops buttery. The roasted beef tenderloin, with horseradish-whipped potatoes, baby carrots, onions, and asparagus was palate pleasing but did not deliver as well as the scallops. The beef was over cooked; it was close to well, not medium rare as requested. The potatoes were delectable but heavy on butter which overpowered the seasoning of the beef. The vegetables were also finished with butter, further overshadowing the flavor of the meat.
For dessert, a selection of five local cheeses offered a well rounded selection, showcasing different types including a blue, soft and hard cheese. To accompany them on the gray slate, there were Marcona almonds, diced quince paste and honey. The cheeses were safe, including the sides as they are commonly used as pairings. But, the decision to have something I have had before was a conscious one. The “new” dessert we also ordered was a blueberry and lavender tart served with crème fraiche ice cream. Our attempt to divert from the sweet norm did not go as plan. Overall the dessert was mediocre. The blueberry/ lavender filling, which was the main component of the dessert, was unexciting; dull in taste.
The dishes delivered; the food far exceeded my expectations to the point I consider it worthy of three stars. The allure here lies in the juxtaposition of this realization against the humble and personal space. Furthermore, it is the marriage of the diverse elements of food, décor, and staff which creates a romantic environment that becomes lucid as you dine. And it is this that makes Tallulah on Thames special.
