In the heart of Newport among the many consignment stores and eateries there lays a town gem one may consider quite an oddity. With white Christmas lights hanging on the outside façade, Tucker’s Bistro outshines its neighbors on Broadway. But once inside you realize that the lavishness does not stop at the yellow door. Rich ruby walls, dim lighting, and an eclectic collection of artwork, sculptures, and mirrors evoke the surreal. The space creates a form of escapism- you get the feeling you are not quite in the now. For the last fourteen years, owner Tucker’s lack of restraint has created a luxurious space which ironically he conceived from salvaged pieces found at local garage sales and antique shops. Amidst this flurry, Chef Rick Allaire’s simple approach to food provides an unexpected sense of comfort.
Upon entering, Tucker led us to a private booth draped in Prussian blue curtains. Found in the back of one of the two dinning rooms, it is ideal for an intimate dinner for two, or six. A hands-on type of owner, Tucker repeatedly asked if we had any reservations with the given table since there was a large, noisy group seated next to us. We had none, so we stayed. He asked for our drink order but we chose to have him select for us based on the Chef’s surprise tasting menu. A friendly server returned momentarily with two glasses of white wine. She gave us a brief explanation of the Xarelo (Spanish grape) which would complement the first couple of courses. This wine is of medium body and great acidity, a suitable pairing with seafood which we assumed would be the forerunners of our meal. It is New England after all.
We were first presented with the amuse bouche of cured marinated hamachi neck. Plated on white porcelain spoons, the blush colored fish was small diced and mixed with Meyer lemon, red onion and chives. While delicate in flavor, the single morsel left my mouth watering. The acidity of the lemon cut through the fattiness bringing brightness to the bite, while the chives and red onion created a slight texture. The simple yet palate enticing preparation of the hamachi was proof that Chef Allaire has a special affinity for seafood, which he proved again and again with the dishes to come.
Our first appetizer was a gnudi with white and green pencil asparagus, sunchokes, pancetta, and parsley oil powder. The creaminess of the gnudi, a soft pillow-like gnocchi made from ricotta cheese, was a perfect starch to contrast the other elements. The asparagus were cooked al dente, that is they still had a bite to them, and were finished with a drizzle of Meyer lemon juice which balanced the earthiness of the sunchoke. The basic rule of utilizing acids to harmonize ingredients as well as to enhance a flavor is one Chef Allaire proved he has not forgotten.
Like with the gnudi, the melted Scottish salmon belly showed yet again the Chef’s knowledge of using the diverse bounty the earth has to offer. The salmon belly was served with purple potatoes, fennel chips, lettuce, mustard oil and red verjus (refers to grape or apple juice used as the acid in a vinaigrette or sauce). It also demonstrated the diverse technique the Chef employs. Cooked in a dehydrator at a temperature of 140 degrees, the salmon is rendered soft and silky. Like the description said it melts in your mouth.
With the following courses the Chef‘s cuisine took on a global perspective. A seared Georges Bank scallop was paired with Le Puy lentils (from its namesake region in France), apple curry vinaigrette, beet and basil seed caviar. A chip made of milk skin was in the form of a coral, perhaps the Chef’s quirky attempt to maintain the ocean theme. The scallop was perfect- crispy on the outside with a smooth center. If it weren’t for the unknown number of dishes to come I would have asked for seconds. I was not as impressed with the accompaniments which were, although savory, homogenous and thus difficult to distinguish on my plate.
Chef Allaire revisited an Italian classic with his safe interpretation of pasta alla carbonara. A raw, quail egg yolk sat on top of twirled, house made spaghetti finished with parmesan and chives. The flavor was on point, but the pasta was slightly undercooked and barely warm for my liking.
Traditional French inspired dishes followed living up to the bistro name. Seared Hudson Valley foie gras with vanilla pudding, ginger bread, orange, amaretto poached apricots and sherry caramel. A duo of duck was paired with cracklings, toasted faro, marcona almonds, and orange ginger sauce. The salty confit of duck terrine was topped with a sweet mango “yolk” to resemble a classic steak tartare. Rich and flavorful as anything cooked in fat would be, the confit overshadowed the rather bland tenderloin “mosaic”, or roulade. Crispy veal sweetbreads, cooked sous vide and finished in the fryer, were tender and light. Green garlic, potato gnocchi, maiitake mushrooms, and a braised mustard seed Calvados sauce brought earthiness, pungency, and fullness to the dish.
The first dessert, if you could call it one, had all the makings of a salad with caraway braised gold beets, frisée, celery seed crème fraiche, Saba and hazelnut oil. Although an unusual choice, it allowed for a gentle and gradual transition on the palette between the savory and sweet part of the meal. The final course, buttermilk custard, orange brûlée, with blood orange supremes, was an underwhelming end to the ten course long meal revealing Chef Allaire's strength lies on the culinary arts rather than on pastry confections.
At the end of the meal it was clear Chef Allaire deliberately combines quality ingredients and sundry technique to render the delectable creations he serves at Tucker’s Bistro. Not only is the food worth the trip, but the restaurant in it of itself is an exhibition of the repertoire that reflects the unique individual Tucker is.
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