At Home Dining: Potato + Leek

An Evening at Gracie's

The expectation was set for Gracie's in Providence. This, however, does not necessarily mean that it was high. I was mindful that the previous chef had left earlier in the year, and his sous chef, who begun working garde manger at the restaurant years ago (cold appetizers, or the "beginner" station on the line) was now the chef. Gacie's menu is influenced by the season, generally, and uses local ingredients, when possible, to create what I describe as contemporary American cuisine. The menu reads similar to many restaurants including some I have worked at in San Francisco. In these types of restaurants, execution is key; quality ingredients speak for themselves, but how you prepare these ingredients is what elevates dishes from 'good' to 'superb'. At Gracie's what begun as a five course dinner chosen as a pre-fixe menu, turned into nine long courses, and ended as an admirable culinary effort.

Before sitting down we had cocktails from their $5 specials' list. I chose a drink (vodka, ginger beer and cucumber), which was extremely sweet, and more of a summer beverage, not necessarily what one craves on a chilly fall night. We waited a bit before sitting at our table, partly because the hostess was busy on the floor. The restaurant was not full, probably six tables, but throughout the night the service was terribly slow. We did not mind since we were there to dine and enjoy a night out, but the frustration was evident in fellow diners.

The first amuse bouche was peaches, with Shy Brothers Farm Cloumage (creamy cheese made from cow's milk), honey, and a plush of chervil. Peaches are not in season; they were bland which makes me believe the honey was used to overcompensate for the lack of flavor.Next an oyster with a sweet marmalade and radish sliver showed potential, but the oyster was not cold. Temperature, I realize, affects the brininess that is characteristic of oysters.

The first dish was a beet salad with mache, pea greens, endive, candied pecans and celery seed creme fraiche. The beets were beautifully cooked (sous vide we assume). The salad was fresh and light, but the candied pecans were unnececessary. The beets provided sweetness, which made the presence of another sweet element uneccessary. I would have preferred some other ingredient for texture.

Second course was their hand rolled gnocchi with braised short ribs, mushrooms, and mirepoix. The dish overall worked very well. The braised meat had good flavor. The gnocchi were cooked to the point that a second longer would have turned them into mush. The diced carrots and celery did have a bite, and while I understand that they added to the rustic concept of the dish, their only purpose was to add color to the monotone dish. The dish however was on the verge of being too salty.

Next we had seared Hudson Valley foie gras, with nougatine, and apples- a familiar combination. The foie gras was nicely cooked, but on its own was very salty. When eaten with the cake like nougatine, and the sweet gastrique, the saltiness was less evident, but each component should be able to stand on its own.

Veal sweetbreads ensued with cauliflower puree, lentils and a sunny side quail egg. I love sweetbreads and was hoping it was a dish the chef would select for us when choosing our tasting. The sweetbreads were deep fried. The end product is tender (to my relief) but the taste of fryer oil cheapened the normally delicate flavor. The lentils, which were nicely cooked, were over salted, and their richness made the quail egg irrelevant to the dish.

Scallops were served with Marcona almond puree, greens, blood orange and blood orange vinaigrette. The richness and creaminess of the scallops and the purees made me desire more acidity; the dish could have used more of the blood orange vinaigrette and less puree.

"Mid course" we were brought a raspberry sorbet, since sorbets are served to cleanse the palate. The rabbit with butternut squash puree, chestnuts, poached cranberries, and turnip was our last savory course. The rabbit was meant to be a roullade with forcemeat stuffed into the breast. The meat was cooked tender (sous vide), but there was little distinction between the layers (like I have seen in similar preparations using this technique). The chestnuts had a mealy texture. The dish had nice flavors, but could have used more of the poached cranberries since they brought brightness and acidity to the dish.

A tasting of cheese, which I can never resist, was a bit unmemorable. The set that stood out was Shy Brothers Farm Hannahbells (thimble shaped, hand made cheese) with a spicy pepper preserve made in house, which was a bit overpowering for the cheese, but unique nonetheless.

Dessert was a sneak peek to Thanksgiving dinner- pumpkin cheesecake with cherry "marmalade". The cheesecake was not overly sweet; the pumpkin flavor was subtle.

The chef went above and beyond with all the courses. The dinner was good, and a stand out in Rhode Island standards. But outside of this small state, Gracie's falls behind the excellent restaurants. The concept of the cuisine and construction of dishes does show knowledge of flavor combinations and some technique, but some weakness lies in execution. The tasting experience was well rounded and proved that the chef has potential.

Johnny's Peking Tokyo

That there would be a local sushi spot with good tasting sushi, reminiscent of any of the restaurants one can easily find in cities like New York and San Francisco, I thought was an impossibility...until Johnny's Peking Tokyo in Mystic. The unassuming location in a small shopping center, let alone the name of the restaurant itself, would have never drawn me to the restaurant. Peking Tokyo came as a recommendation; the best one I have received since my move to Rhode Island. The seafood is fresh. The raw fish has a delicate taste. The daily specials bring unique fish to the menu like Madai (red bream) and Otoro (fatty tuna), and a selection of composed rolls like the Rainbow Caviar (spicy salmon and tempura flakes topped with colorful tobiko) and the Black Dragon (shrimp tempura topped with eel, avocado, and eel sauce). Peking's is a wonderful surprise, and after my second visit, I can't wait to return.

At Home Dining: Cauliflower Soup

Cauliflower + Onion+ Garlic + Water + Olive Oil + Lemon Juice

Matunuck Oyster Bar

Matunuck Oyster Bar is the epitome of what is casual, what is New England, and what is seafood. Set overlooking Potter Pond in East Matunuck, which is in fact a nursery where oysters are harvested for the restaurant and other markets, Matunuck's serves farm-raised and wild caught seafood, complemented by local ingredients sourced from nearby farmers. The deck allows guests to enjoy fresh seafood and cocktails- perfect for dining in the summer. Inside, the restaurant has a raw bar where oysters are shucked endlessly and patrons can stand around and taste the different varieties. A lobster tank in the back of the small restaurant allows guests to pick their own lobster. Dishes are simple and straight forward, the fare includes the classics (think lobster bisque, fish and chips, calamari) and portions are more than generous. The wait tends to be long (45 minutes when I dined) but made painless by the raw bar's constant action. Matunuck's is a Rhode Island must.

Too Much at Red Stripe

The Red Stripe American Brasserie in Narragansett, one of two in Rhode Island, is described in their website as:

Red Stripe is a traditional brasserie with an edge. Classic, and unique. Red Stripe has the distinction of being upscale yet relaxed, where you will find people from all walks of life enjoying their dining experience. Red Stripe serves comfort food with a French influence – simple in context, yet refined in taste. Food that is reasonably priced and made with passion!

This is far from the dinner experience I had. Inside the decor is a bit confusing. Like in other brasseries, they have wine bottle displayed, round white lamps above the tables, warm colored walls, and large art prints. In the dinning room, some tables have large red and black banquets, which made me feel like I was at a diner. The bar has a free floating display of liquor bottles inside of it; more fitting for a trendy city bar, not a restaurant that gives crayons to children to draw on the table.

The menu was extensive; comparable to the Cheesecake Factory, with somewhat diverse selections worth mentioning: burgers, pizzas, appetizers, salads, seafood,fried seafood, sandwiches pork, chicken, Jamaican selection, and Italian selection. I guess the large portions can be interpreted as comforting, but the French influence is weak and with dishes like taco fritos de la playa negra and veal parmesan they should not make such a distinct claim.

We ordered the Red Strip mussels cooked with shallots, Red Stripe beer, garlic, tomato, pesto and cream, while we took our time to read the entire menu. We decided to order several things to share. When the mussels arrived, in mini iron pans, we did not have plates, and our server was m.i.a. We started eating them, since we did not want them to get cold, and we realized that they were sandy. When our server finally came around, we told her, and she took them away and said she would put in a new order. I would have preferred to order something else, since if there was sand the whole batch is still sandy, but she rushed off.

The rest of our food all arrived soon after, although we had requested they get sent out when ready. A pizza does not take the same amount of time as a soup! The "New Heaven" clam pizza, with garlic, parmesan cheese, chopped clams, and green onion was disappointing. First, it did not have green onion and there was an excessive amount of cheese (a common denominator at Red Strip) which made the thin crust very soggy. The baked French onion soup was extremely weak, as if it had been made with vegetable or chicken stock, and it was very greasy. The Jamaican jerk chicken wings, served with banana guava ketchup, was probably the best part of our meal. They were sweet and a bit spicy, although traditional Jamaican jerk spice is more spicy than sweet. My beau suggested it needed acidity, so we ordered limes, and the squirt of juice did make an amazing difference. It masked the sweetness, which was so predominant, and brought out the spiciness. The banana guava ketchup was as unappealing as it sounds. It was a thick paste made of browned bananas and its sweetness made no sense with the already sweet wings. The second mussels arrived, and to no ones surprise, they still had sand, and we sent them back. Worked out well since the rest of the food was ample. We finished full with food left on the plate.

Red Stripe is a place of excess, which is to their detriment. If they limited their menu, they could be more successful with the execution of dishes. They should also assess the actual approach to the dishes in terms of ingredients and preparation. Narrowing down their focus could be beneficial to them. Too many ideas are in place but their is little harmony among the different concepts. I hope they take a step back and reflect; they have potential.

More Seafood at the Ancient Mariner

Like many of the other local restaurants I have visited since moving to the Rhode Island/ Connecticut area, the Ancient Mariner in Mystic is a casual restaurant that specializes in seafood, like the name implies. The menu, like in many of the other restaurants I have tried, does not stop with mussels, clams, and the daily catch; the Mariner also serves chop house style fare, New England classic dishes (think Yankee Post Roast) and burgers.

The space is made to look like a nautical museum with oars hanging from the ceiling, blue wooden panels lining the walls and booths, and prints of old Mystic steamboats hanging from the walls.

For old times sake, we ordered an onion soup, which made well can be delicious (and very different from the Campbell's version which has been desecrated to make casseroles and other "family" meals). The signs of a good onion soup: evident acidity, rich color, bubbling and browning of cheese. Their onion soup was all the above and more, so much that we ordered a seconds.

Since we were in the mood of sharing, we ordered the Mariners Treasure Chest- clams casino, oysters Rockefeller, Stuffies, and popcorn shrimp. This did not prove to be as amazing as the soup. The biggest let down were the clams, which instead of diced bacon and a heap of toasted breadcrumbs, there was a slice of bacon (the length of the clam) and a light sprinkle of breadcrumbs. It was slightly insulting. The oysters were an improvement, with a savory creamed spinach on top. The stuffies, quintessential Rhode Island, were decent. The quahogs are mixed with an excessive amount of breadcrumbs to make what seemed like a bread crumb Matzoh ball in the half shell. To my opinion, and this was my first stuffie, this preparation completely hides the clam's flavor. The popcorn shrimp was good; it was fried and had a sweet and sour dipping sauce. Easy.

From the specials' menu, we ordered a blackened salmon Caesar salad. This was disappointing. The salmon was under seasoned, and completely dry. Salmon can be blackened on the grill without drying; its all about timing.

For dessert, we ordered a brownie Sunday. Chocolate, ice cream, and fudge- ultimate indulgence.

The Ancient Mariner has a good selection of items, although not all might be hits, which makes the restaurant a good choice for a low key meal, in a laid back setting, with friendly service.

A Bland Spiced Pear

Yesterday, my beau and I drove out to Newport to enjoy the gorgeous day, and what better way to spend our time outdoors than eating and drinking at the Spiced Pear's open terrace.

The nationally-recognized restaurant featuring contemporary American cuisine is located in the award-winning hotel The Chandler. Set on a cliff overlooking the ocean, surrounded by pristine, plush gardens, the view from the terrace was spectacular. The view, however, was the only impressive thing about our experience. The menu has a selection of items including oysters, pizzas, entrees which include a lobster roll and burger.

We ordered oysters, served with a Mojito sorbet, since oysters tend to be refreshing, and go well with any alcoholic beverage. The plate came with four oysters, each a size bigger than the other. The Mojito sorbet was sweet, cold, rum-y and hid all the briny flavor the oysters have. These oysters are meant for people who do not like oysters. The plate on which they were served was rectangular with crushed ice, which quickly melted in the hot summer weather and created a drip and then a puddle our table which we had to ask and wait to get cleared. The bits of shell left in the oysters made the dish even more unfortunate.

We also ordered the Italian pizza, with Italian sausage, pepperoni, house dried tomatoes and mozzarella. The pizza was measly, from the quantity of ingredients to the crust, which is not made in house. The pizza could have used more sausage and sauce. The crust was similar to the edible tortilla shell Mexican taco salads come served in. It was crispy, flaky, and so thin it should have been called a cracker.

In the end, there was better place to enjoy our spectacular day outdoors; and that was Tucker's Bistro, which we went to right after.

Momofuku: Unexpected

Leave it to me to go on stereotypes and think that Momofuku was a typical Asian, fine dining restaurant with strongly flavored ethnic food, minimal, Asian decor, and indigenous servers. When I ate at Momofuku's Ssam Bar a week ago, I realized that my misconceptions were, to my embarrassment, verging on delusional.

First, Momofuku, by well-known chef and author David Chang, is not just one, single restaurant, but is a cartel of several locales around New York City with strong Asian overtones. Part of the Momofuku quintet is Ssam Bar in the East village where I dined. The space itself looks, and feels, like any other spot in the city- narrow, dark, heavy on wood, loud. The restaurant has a main bar that runs the entire place, starting at the doorway and ending at the back by the exhibition kitchen. A large chunk of the bar has high, slender stools set at both sides, so it serves as extra seating for guests, since only a few tables line the wall. Ssam Bar has a casual environment that is reinforced by the hipster servers who are, like New Yorkers are labeled, cold.

The menu features yet creatively reinvents the use of what we may consider common Asian ingredients, but the dishes also show inspiration from the the fresh produce available during the season. To bring another cliche to the table, the cuisine at Ssam Bar can be labeled as fusion of Asian and farm-to-table, contemporary and traditional, with items like the Hawthorne Valley Buttermilk, fuji apple dashi, market herbs, and pine nuts. I was told that if I were to go to Momofuku, there was one thing I had to try- Steamed Buns- and I am glad I did. Braised pork belly, soft and juicy pork in all its glory, is paired with thinly sliced, slightly pickled cucumbers, hoisin, and scallions. This simple, yet made-in-heaven combination was wrapped in steamed buns; the recipe which remains a secret. I had imagined the buns were like bulky French rolls, but instead they resemble pita bread. The subtly of the bread in the dish allows you to really take in the other clear flavors. To try something else, we ordered the shaved dry aged sirloin from the Seasonal selection. This dish was disappointing. A lemon verbena broth ( a green herb tasting of lemon) is poured table side into a bowl with the raw beef, charred fava beans, and delicate ribbons of rhubarb, like a Shabu-Shabu, were the hot temperature of the broth begins to slowly cook the meat. Lemon verbena is so intense that all the other ingredients were merely for texture. A different broth would have allowed the smokiness of the fava beans, the sweetness and tartness of the rhubarb, and the strong flavor of the sirloin to be savored on the palate.

Now, a week later, I still think about by brief dinner at Ssam Bar. I wish I would have tried more dishes since the menu has a diverse selection, with items under such categories as Country Ham, Raw Bar, and Offal. And even though the sirloin and verbena broth dish was a let down, I am confident that all other dishes will be as memorable as the steamed buns. If you ever find yourself wondering Second Avenue, stop in at Momofuku Ssam Bar, I know I will.

There's Something Special About Tallulah

When selecting where to take the beau for his birthday dinner, I had a difficult choice to make, but I knew what my restaurant requirements were. First, the quality of the food was top priority. Night after night, he creates incredible dishes and watches others indulge in them. I wanted that special experience for him. The restaurant I chose had to be one we had not dined at before. Outings are rare these days, so I wanted the night to be exciting for both of us, especially since it would be a surprise for him. Finally, they had to be opened on a Tuesday night.

Tallulah on Thames, in Newport, is a fairly new restaurant I had heard of from a Chef who I deemed of excellent taste as I previously had an outstanding meal at his restaurant. Going in totally oblivious to the menu, reviews, or what the actual restaurant looked like due to the lack of a working website, I was pleasantly surprised when I first walked in. The space is modest, short of forty seats, which made me at ease and lured me in;. I get a sense of comfort from more intimate settings. White tiles reminiscent of a period I quite can't point out, cover the walls and ceilings while the floor has large white and black tiles; bringing in together the white linen and black chairs. There is no bar in the main dining room, but there is a narrow window opening into the kitchen, which gives the illusion the restaurant is busier than it really is. Above the aperture, a book shelf runs across with a collection of the Chef's culinary books including “Under Pressure”, “Robuchon” and Harold McGee's “On Food and Cooking”, all must- have books for any great Chef today.

I had prearranged for two glasses of the house sparkling wine to be served upon our arrival as a celebratory token for the occasion. The manager at Tallulah was very accommodating with my request. At the restaurant, menus are clipped to giant clipboards which guests must awkwardly place on their laps wedged between them and the table. The wine list was limited; we had a delicious Pinot Noir, which was a special of the evening, and a decent Meritage.

The table bread is a house made brioche roll, served warm with whipped butter shaped into a perfect rectangle and finished with fleur de sel and micro cilantro. We first received Atlantic salmon cornets, as a gift from the Chef, which were small savory cones, stuffed with cured and shredded salmon dressed with lemon juice, salt, and crème fraiche. The flavor was very similar to gravlax, which I am not the biggest fan of, but the acidity from the lemon juice and texture from the cone imparted another dimension to the cured fish.

For appetizer, the mussels with chorizo in a tomato based broth with garlic, shallots, and peppers, served with house made brioche, was incomparable. The mussels were large, and tenderly cooked. The broth had a subtle spiciness to it, perhaps from the chorizo, and was finished with butter creating a rich, creamy, sauce, which my companion slurped up as if it were a soup. Their version of “toad in a hole”, was a 145 degree egg, served with brioche, baby spring vegetables, pea greens and truffle vinaigrette. The dish was well balanced, with acidity and earthiness from the truffle vinaigrette, brightness and slight sweetness from the pea greens, and heaviness brought on by the runny yolk. Both appetizers proved to be delicious and proof that the Chef Jake Rojas understands the dynamics of ingredients.

For entrees, the scallop dish had caught my eye as it was served to another table. The scallops looked mouth watering. They were hefty in size and had a warm, golden brown color indicating proper caramelization. Not only that, but the plate was abundant, not only with the portion of the scallops, but also the vegetables. The scallops sat on puree of carrots, and was served with a medley of vegetables, including haricot verts, baby carrots, and English peas. The scallops were cooked well done, not to the point of medium like I have had before, but were still succulent. The dish had opposing textures; the vegetables were cooked al dente, the puree was smooth and the scallops buttery. The roasted beef tenderloin, with horseradish-whipped potatoes, baby carrots, onions, and asparagus was palate pleasing but did not deliver as well as the scallops. The beef was over cooked; it was close to well, not medium rare as requested. The potatoes were delectable but heavy on butter which overpowered the seasoning of the beef. The vegetables were also finished with butter, further overshadowing the flavor of the meat.

For dessert, a selection of five local cheeses offered a well rounded selection, showcasing different types including a blue, soft and hard cheese. To accompany them on the gray slate, there were Marcona almonds, diced quince paste and honey. The cheeses were safe, including the sides as they are commonly used as pairings. But, the decision to have something I have had before was a conscious one. The “new” dessert we also ordered was a blueberry and lavender tart served with crème fraiche ice cream. Our attempt to divert from the sweet norm did not go as plan. Overall the dessert was mediocre. The blueberry/ lavender filling, which was the main component of the dessert, was unexciting; dull in taste.

The dishes delivered; the food far exceeded my expectations to the point I consider it worthy of three stars. The allure here lies in the juxtaposition of this realization against the humble and personal space. Furthermore, it is the marriage of the diverse elements of food, décor, and staff which creates a romantic environment that becomes lucid as you dine. And it is this that makes Tallulah on Thames special.

Im On Board...on Skipper's Dock

Although I had visited the coastal village so cleverly known as Stonington Borough before (it's a mile-long peninsula in said name city), I had not dined there, let alone really noticed anywhere to eat, except the small cafe where I once grabbed a lukewarm latte. Once again, from co-workers, I had heard of a place called Skipper's Dock, and when the beau, to my surprise, got off work relatively early, we decided to see what this outdoor spot was all about.

Skipper's Dock occupies a pier overlooking Stonington Harbor. That evening, the harbor was serene; small sail boats lined the dock, the Atlantic Ocean was undisturbed, and if I were to look for it, I bet I could have seen Long Island Sound. And to add to the cliche, the sun was setting turning the sky all shades of orange, and two young girls we running giddily around the pier holding hands.

Like most sea-bound dinning spots, Skipper's Dock is all about the seafood. The restaurant neighbors several fishermen docks, which makes for fresh seafood all around. We ordered several appetizers: clam chowder, calamari, and crab cakes. The latter only after we discovered that Skipper ran out of oysters; but after a spectacular, sunny day, we were not surprised, just slightly disappointed. The food was what I expected: fried, hence greasy, slightly under season, of irrational portions (e.g. tiny crab cakes, lots of calamari), and unrestrained (deep dish peach cobbler a la mode); just what one craves and needs at times. That said, the food fit with the scene: wood-planked restaurant, cocktail drinking people, and laid back crew. Skipper's makes you feel comfortable, and in these seaside towns, a cold drink and some fresh seafood is all you need to pass time.

Anthony J's: Yes, it is Italian

Anthony J's Bistro in Mystic, Connecticut is another of those spots the locals seem to know and love, referring to it as a place with 'really good food and drinks'. On that note, I decided to investigate.

Inside, the place is covered in dark wood from floor to ceiling, only broken by wall sections made of massive gray bricks. An extremely colorful mural depicting what I assume is a night at Anthony J's distracts you through the entire meal (at least it did for my sister and me). Not only is it very outdated, but it is comical as the “people” on it are of different races, shades, and personalities. I give props to the idea of being all inclusive, but it came as across as trying too hard. But then yet again, it might just be the owner's joke on us. Portrayed, there is a diner-like waitress with big hair carrying a tray high up above her head, an Asian woman sitting at the bar next to a man with a red beard, an African American male wearing bright yellow in the fore front, and a promiscuous looking blonde at the bar chatting up an overweight, bald man. Also, a man with a stiff posture, red bow tie and suspenders, who I think of as “the connoisseur” of the wall, further proves that the bistro attracts all types of people.

Anthony J's is an Italian bistro serving the classics, among them bolognese, fettuccine carbonara, osso bucco, antipasta, and small selection of stone pizza pies. For starters, I ordered the veal meatballs with homemade marinara sauce, and calamari fritti, as per recommendation. The meatballs had a light flavor, probably from the choice of meat, and were less crumbly than the meatballs I am used to. The marinara was straightforward, and overall the dish had less spices and herbs than could have been used, but good nonetheless.

The calamari fritti was squid tossed with red cherry peppers and bread crumbs. Their calamari is pan fried, not deep fried, which does not give it that greasy, oil taste. The squid was cooked perfectly, not chewy at all, but tender and soft. It was very spicy, which I liked, but it lacked salt. In my opinion, a wedge of lemon would have added a splash of acidity to brighten up the dish.

Unique to the menu of any Italian restaurant, but perhaps common to Korean cuisine, is their Hot Rocks. Stones imported from Italy are heated to a scorching 650 degrees. Guests chose from seafood scampi, steak teriyaki, and cajun spiced chicken (the two latter being very traditional Italian, ahem!) and cook the proteins themselves. Other tables around us, from what I overheard, were hesitant to order this since it would require them having to cook, which is after all the main reason people dine out. I liked the interactiveness of the dish and decided to try the seafood scampi. I heard the sizzle before I saw the waitress approaching us carrying the smoking board. On it was a square stone with seafood in a straight line- four scallops, two shrimp, lobster knuckles, small pieces of salmon, and some calamari. I enjoy my scallops and salmon cooked more medium that my sister does, and the stone allowed us to have seafood our way. The seafood, however, lacked seasoning again, and none of the Hot Rocks items include a side. We ordered a simple garden salad with tomato basil vinaigrette since the meal would have then felt incomplete.

For dessert, we got the tiramisu made in house. It was sweet, light, and airy. It was rich, but not overwhelming. It did not get the Kahlua and coffee flavors listed on the description, and I felt it had less lady finger than other tiramisu I have had or made.

Like with many of the restaurants in small towns, with Anthony J's “it is what it is”.